Day 20 and 21: Salida to Pueblo, CO and a Rest day in Pueblo

Bye-Bye Mountains. At least till Vermont or so.

Friday we rode 96 miles from Salida east to Pueblo. Literally dropped over 3000 feet down from the Rockies onto the Eastern plain. We're still at over 4000 feet elevation here, but the terrain changed drastically the last 40 miles of our ride to high rolling dry hills of dry, hot country.

We started the first 35 miles through beautiful canyon following the Arkansas river from it source in Salida as it raged down the canyon swollen with tons of snow melt and rains from the thunderstorms that ran though Thursday afternoon. Red rock, green valley, steep cliffs. This is where a lot of rafting happens so we saw lots of raft outfitters putting boats in the water and screaming people filled boats careening down the rapids. Looked fun ... it was hot. If we weren't going 96 miles I was considering walking in on a half day raft trip to cool off. But 96 miles can be a long day in the saddle. The river was running too high to swim in. So a huge chocolate milkshake at Big Daddys diner in Canon City had to suffice to cool off and fuel up for the last 4o miles in to Pueblo.

The riding was easy ... a slight downhill for miles as we followed the river down. One 3 mile climb and them more downhill.

We mountain folks are all gritting our teeth and wondering what it will be like riding for days through flat, hot windy cow country. Kansas ... day after tomorrow. East Colorado ... basically like Kansas riding wise. We've been talking about how to amuse ourselves ... road games? Punchbug on the bike? Judy my roommate says the best way is to meet and talk with as many of the locals as possible. Which sounds fun except with temps over 100 degrees I want to get done with riding by early afternoon everyday cause I can't tolerate heat anymore even though I grew up in North Carolina humidity. I have visions of begging people to spray me with their garden hose as I ride by.

Today we had a needed rest day in Pueblo. I know my legs are fatigued because when I leave my comfort zone at all when riding - like getting out of the saddle on a hill - the lactic acid just burns like crazy. That's usually not a problem. So today was leisurely.

Slept in till almost nine. (If you haven't tried the MACs wax earplugs do - much better than the foam plugs and you can sleep through anything). Then headed to the grocery store and bought some Greek yogurt and raspberries and a peach. Talked the nice girls at the hotel desk into taking the delicious bread and scones Tracey, Neil and the 3 little Snyders sent as a care package (THANK YOU!!!) to the kitchen and warming it up for me, and then I set up Pate's breakfast buffet in the middle of the lobby. Didn't take long for all that bread, jam, double creme, scones and granola to disappear from a lot of happy cyclists with eyes half closed going "oh man, is this good".

Then off with Jack, Chuck and Dr. Shawn to the street rodder car show. These cars have been driving past us for 3 days coming to Pueblo for their national convention. We got to the fairgrounds and there were over 3000 cars pre 1949 and most fully restored with loving owners just waiting to talk about their baby. It was pretty fun, even for someone like me who who drives a beat up 10 year old Honda civic and generally could care less about cars.

On a sad note, we lost another cross country rider today, Jim. Super nice guy from San Francisco. He has a pacemaker that started malfunctioning during the ride. But he climbed Monarch pass anyway wondering why he wasn't feeling very strong ... his heart rate was 56!! Unbelievable. To put that in perspective, a really strong athletes resting heart rate is around that rate. My heart rate when I climbed the pass was probably around 140 beats per minute. Crazy he was able to do it. But now he's off to get "tech support" as I was calling it and hopefully they can fix the problem quickly and he can rejoin us.

We also lost all 13 riders who joined us in Salt Lake City and left in Pueblo. Best of luck to them - and great riding with you if you are reading.

Tomorrow we do the longest ride I've ever done though not by much - 120 miles to Lamar, CO. Again a lot of elevation loss. Hoping for a nice tailwind.

Day 19: Gunnison to Salida, CO (Montrose pass, lemonade girls, wine tasting and gondolas)

I'm going to miss the big climbs.

Today's climb over Monarch pass - 11300 feet - was the last good long climb till we get to Vermont.

Don't know why I like the long multi-mile climbs ... Maybe because it's meditative to just settle in to a low gear and crank up a mountain. Rhythmical. Usually beautiful scenery. Mentally challenging - acknowledging that your legs are tired but keep going anyway and thinking about your pedal stroke and keeping a steady cadence. You know you've done something most won't even try and it's a big rush to look back down the valley at how far you've come. It's fun to talk to normal people at the top who come over to confirm that you did actually ride that bike up the pass... and then they pass you on the way down with a big wave and thumbs up.

Today started out on the right foot ... With a proper cup of coffee. Not easy to get out here where instant rules. Yuck.

So properly caffeinated, we headed east towards the Pass. The first 35 miles of our ride were all a gradual climb as we'll followed the Gunnison River up a beautiful green valley towards the higher peaks.

On the way we saw a herd of big horn sheep hanging out in a pasture with some llamas. I assume the llamas were part of the ranch and the sheep were crashing. The big male sheep with the curving horns was standing and watching all of us carefully, while his ladies lounged on the grass oblivious.

The 9 mile climb wound up a valley and then up the side of the mountain that had been blasted into just enough room for a road. A thousand foot drop on the right with narrow shoulders ... This was not a climb for those with a fear of heights.

The river ran below and you could still hear it as we climbed higher. I watched my garmin ticking off the elevation - we climbed over 3500 feet in 9 miles.

The air is noticeably thinner after 8 or 9000 feet. I have a good tolerance for high altitude, but I found that when I would take a drink from my water bottle just disrupting the rhythm of my breathing left me gasping to recover enough air to sustain the climbing. Passed by several riders and gave them all the positive words - looking really strong, we're almost there, took a photo of them as I passed to document their climb.

The summit had all the tourist trappings we could desire, complete with T-shirts that said I made it to the summit of Monarch pass on a bike, a Gondola you could take to the mountain summit for great views (of course I went), and a fudge shop. Yep had some fudge, too.

The down hill was great. Fast but not so fast you had to ride your brakes to stay in control, unbelievable views and downhill all the way into town.

I met up with Marilyn on the way down and rode in with her. She was a willing accomplice for a pit stop by an ice cream stand recommended by a rider from an earlier trip (very tasty chocolate malt which I also justify serves as my chocolate milk-like recover drink) and further down the road a little wine tasting.

When we rolled into the hotel we we're greeted by four very cute little girls with a lemonade stand. They were making a killing at $.75 a cup. But I don't mind ... Go girl entrepreneurs.

Tonight we wandered around the town of Salida (pronounced Sal eye da). Very cute town with the river running through it, lots of shops, pubs - it's clearly an destination/resort area that draws outdoorsy crowds.

A great day. 66 miles ridden, approx 4500 elevation

Day 18: Montrose to Gunnison, CO (cue Rocky Mountain High)

My Mom reminded me that when my sister and I were 9 or so we had a family vacation at a Dude Ranch outside Gunnison in one of the canyons. We would tack on family vacations to Dad's business trips back then, and I remember this one as a highlight.

I was horse crazy and the Dude ranch was my idea of heaven - and it meant a trail ride on an actual horse. I remember getting all dressed up complete with boots I think and then being too shy to talk to the cowboy (or probably college kid on a summer job). But the best spending days building a fort by the Gunnison River in front of our cabin.

Grubby and outdoors ... my idea of fun then and now.

Today was spectacular. But we had to work for the reward today.

We were still riding with the Tour of Colorado folks. We had two significant climbs today - and the first 15 miles - - including most of one of the climbs was in a "put your head down and pedal as hard as possible and be thankful you're making 10 mph on the flats for your efforts" headwind. Trees flapping, grass laying sideways, riders grumbling. But as we eased up the first pass the winds slowly died down, and we passed through terrain that became greener and more lush as we climbed to the first summit at just under 8000 feet.

After a 2 mile gorgeous descent (where we lost almost 1000 feet of that hard won elevation gain) whizzing through mountains and bigger snow capped peaks in the distance, we started the next climb to summit # 2. No wind this time but it was hot. Winding up a little steeper grade to the second summit, riders were definitely feeling it. I even had to crack open the Cliff blocks which I save for emergency fuel to add electrolytes and a little caffeine push. The second summit got us to over 8700 feet. It was glorious at the top. Wildflowers, views and one of the best descents ever. I bet I stopped 3 or 4 times to take photos and just look around. Incredible.

At the end of the descent we passed through a narrow gulch where the red rocks closed in overheads and the river ran strong next to the road. And then ... oops ... a sneak climb switchbacks up and around the side of a mountain out of site. It's one of those where you look up and see riders several hundred feet above you climbing where you will be going soon enough.

OK ... one more climb. Up we go. Now finally around the corner and ... could it possibly be something even better than what we've just ridden through? Yep! ... Blue Mesa Lake - gorgeous and huge and actually blue. Boats are on the water and red rock mountains are rising from the dammed Gunnison River. OK ... stopping a dozen more times for photos and admiring the views ... I can't believe some of these folks are whizzing by without stopping to see what's around them. What's the hurry?

We keep following the damned river/lake and head into Gunnison. Relatively flat and fast. Interesting company on the ride in with Gary from Cleveland in for the Salt Lake Pueblo leg where I talked him into trying the ice bath. We'll see if he's still talking to me tonight. A trip to the local pizza joint for lunch before heading back to the hotel. That pizza was good ... and we're going back tonight for dinner. May have another :) Because I can eat 2 pizzas a day now if I want. Love that.

Tomorrow if a big climb up and over Monarch Pass and then down to Salida. Over 11000 feet ... it will be interesting to see how the altitude impacts climbing. I know the air was thin enough at 8700.

Day 17 - Grand Junction, CO to Montrose, Co and riding with the Tour de Colorado

You've got to love a town that takes enough pride in it's community to invest in making it a little special.

After dinner last night I took a cab downtown with Chuck and Bob to check out Main Street. They had whimsical and fun public sculptures and plantings everywhere. Including a big bicycle you could climb on. Lots of bike and outdoor shops - this was clearly a center for outdoor recreation. A brew pub with a mighty tasty Stout on tap. And a gelateria that made their gelato daily using a recipe handed down from a fourth generation Venetian gelato maker. Yum.

When we were riding into Colorado yesterday we were greeted by Grand Junction resident and 7 time cross country rider Sue who met us under an overpass with frozen ices . She also showed us a network of trails leading through town that led by the Colorado River and even marked them with indicator signs .... A real luxury and a wonderful host.

So that's how our 72 mile ride today started, winding around 15 miles through a maze of bike paths to the main road that led to Montrose to the South East. We then joined the 1600 plus cyclists riding the Tour de Colorado - a 7 day event that is on the same route as we are following today and tomorrow. It was pretty fun to ride with other cyclists ... They were very curious about us and it was fun to chat. Their ride is pretty intense - 100+ miles days and 8000+ feet of climbing ... Tomorrow we get to stop in Gunnison and they go on over another mountain pass and for another 40 miles to Crested Butte. But then they haven't been riding for 17 days either. Does make me think it could be fun to come back and do this ride or Ride the Rockies one year down the road.

Today we did some long gradual climbs and passed through range lands and dirt roads leading off to places called Rattlesnake Gulch complete with rattlesnake road kill within 50 yards of the road. You could look down and open canyons snaking below. Cyclists stretched for miles in front and behind us. We noticed we were passing a lot more often than we were passed.

It also turns out that Colorado has wineries ... Who knew. We biked past several wineries ... Tasted a little of the local vino tonight which was pretty good. Hopefully can try some more in the next few days. Finally this afternoon we headed up to the rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. In the van - although Brian biked up there - what's another 2000 feet and 20 miles? He got style points for that. The Canyon is impressive - 2700 feet deep and narrow walls. I'd never been and was glad to see it.

Tomorrow we head on to Gunnison - some real climbing and around 65 miles. I'm looking forward to it, even though I've noticed it takes me longer and longer to warm up and my legs protest as I get going again after a stop. On the other hand I'm riding a lot stronger now ... Holding 19 and 20 mph is very doable and climbing is faster. Probably because I've been chasing faster riders for a couple of weeks now. So that's encouraging ... Wonder how fast we'll be going by the end of this trip?

Day 16: Green River to Grand Junction CO ... 97 miles and 97 degrees

Well, the heat finally caught up with us. It was well over 90 today. Heat introduces additional challenges when cycling ... you need more electrolytes, more water, there is more stress on the body as it has to use extra energy to cool itself. While everyone in our group did OK, riding in heat generally gets folks in trouble faster than anything else.

We've been lucky so far. Usually it's 100 degrees in many of the areas we've been cycling through. At most places so far when I've talked to the locals they've been complaining about the rain and unseasonably cool weather. In Green River they are famous for their watermelons, (I was told the sweetest and best in the world and too bad for me that I missed it) and the talk was that this year they would be lucky to have them ripe by the end of August instead of July as usual.

But despite being hot, the ride over was beautiful. All of this country is on the Colorado (river) Plateau, part of the Rocky Mountains. I've always thought of the Rockies as being in Colorado and North and South, but our friendly ranger yesterday pointed out that they actually start with the Wasatch mountains near Salt Lake and end east of Denver. The Plateau with it's buttes are technically part of the Rockies.

Today's ride was mostly desert range with canyonlands to the north and south. White sand, sagebrush and red and pink bluffs in the distance. We did a bit of climbing today ... over 4000 feet. A lot of it was in the first 30 miles in very slight grade climbs that went forever. I kept forgetting I was actually climbing and kept thinking I was just tired and wondered what was wrong with me for feeling so draggy. Then the terrain turned to rollers with relatively gentle climbs and descents and our pace picked up as we rode through range lands. Lots of gophers and saw another antelope. When we crossed the state line to Colorado, the terrain changed quickly. A long climb and then we entered another plateau. We biked along the Colorado river which was muddy brown and the dark red cliffs rose behind the river. The land was green with more grass and trees and red with the dramatic cliffs and canyons. I'm going to like Colorado.

Tons of our riders have had a lot of trouble with flats ... Chris who I ride with often had 3 and others have had multiple flats. I feel badly for them - it's no fun changing a flat in the hot sun. Cross my fingers that my luck holds - I've only had one so far. Now I've probably jinxed it ...

Tomorrow we bike to Montrose and we'll cross paths with Ride Colorado where there are several thousand riders on the same course. Should be fun to talk with other riders and swap stories ... and chaotic with a lot of cyclists on the road.

Day 15: Price to Green River and Shirley on her Schwinn

When we left Price this morning we were not even 5 miles out of town when we saw the
most beautiful view of mountains with the sun filtering through clouds in visible,
vertical white rays. After at least the 3rd photo stop we were speculating: Could
these mountains already be the Rockies in Colorado? They were huge and dominant.
But as we got closer you could see that these were bit peaks - some over 10k feet -
but they were huge buttes with exposed cliff faces of multicolored rock. Gorgeous.
We were seeing the north end of the Canyon lands and heading to Green River, the
traditional crossroads for the old Spanish Trail, the railroad, pioneers and western
explorers.

It was a 67 mile ride today, and the first half was stop and gawk. We even saw an
antelope.

Then the landscape widened. We could clearly see the striated buttes on the left,
and the lower canyon lands beginning on the right. There were four of us who rode
in together in a good paceline against a strong headwind - Chris, Seattle Bob, Chuck
and I. We have a good system down at this point.

We rode on into Green River, a tiny town of 900. The plan was that I was going to
go with a group to Arches National park, but due to having a mental lapse and
forgetting that the time on my cell was Seattle I missed it. Oops. That's OK. I've
been and it turns out that a white water rafting trip was cancelled due to heavy
rain yesterday that caused mudslides that wiped out the road.

So instead I walked next door to the local city run Green River museum. Tons of info
about the first river exploration down the Green and Colorado Rivers. Very
enthusiastic and bored volunteers running the museum ... I was the only one there.
Chatted with them afterwards and they were helping me figure out the maps and
answering questions about the area. Like it's called the Green River because even
though it's muddy and red now when the melt and rain ends the mud settles and it
becomes Green.

Then walked down to the state park about 1.5 miles away. The ranger was a hoot and
talked with him for a while. Lots more info on the area - nice guy. Headed down to
the water and sat in he shade for a while and then headed back. And met Shirley
coming towards me on her Schwinn.

She had been sitting quietly while the friendly ranger had been talking. But we
went over to the shade and Shirley - who with her husband was volunteering as a camp
host for the summer - is an avid biker. She put over 2000 miles on her Schwinn from
Walmart last year, mostly between 5 and 7 am near her house. That's more outdoor
miles than I put on my new bike training for this ride. GO Shirley GO! She wants
to ride across Missouri for her 65th birthday and needs company. I hope she makes
it. She was awesome.

Dinner was another feed at another restaurant the specialized in quantity over
quality. Which was fine with me - I was hungry. Met a woman at dinner who was
taking a bus from New Jersey to Las Vegas to gamble for 4 days. They were stopping
along the way to check out the sites. She took one look at my legs - the bike tan
line - brown with a 3 inch strip of Seattle pasty white before the shorts start and
said "Oooh baby ... What did you do to your legs?". So then I had to show her my
even funnier glove tan lines with white hands and brown finger tips and wrists.
It's pretty clownish ... Think about how it will look when I'm done.

Right now we are sitting watching the first three days of video of the ride that the
Korean TV station ran. It was so nice of them to give us a rough cut. It's also
1.5 hours long otherwise I'd figure out how to load it up. But they have pretty
much everything on there - eating, riding, climbing. Getting lost.

Tomorrow we hit Colorado. 94 mile ride with some climbing.